Home -> PRODUCTS -> EXTERNAL POWER SUPPLIES                             

  

   Cool Products

   Free Software

  F1 Canopy Covers
  

        Cosmic
      Rocket Stuff

   Heater control Module
  
 Homemade EFIS
   HID Landing Light

 
Equipment cooling
   Pitch Control Module
   External Power unit

  Painting it!
   Electrical
   Alternator

   LED NAV Lights
 

Regular Rocket stuff

  Baffles    
  
Balancing
 
  Cables/Throttle
 
  Canopy
 
  Control Stick
 
  Cowl
 
  Engine OH
 
  Firewall
 
  Paint
 
  Links...
 
  Soon...


Please send your Accolades/Flames to:

Email Me

Copyright © 2002, 2003 by
R. Gross
Rocketboy Aircraft Products Inc.

  What's New!
                                                      

RUN THOSE AVIONICS!
Rocketboy External Powers Supplies
 

It's inevitable. Low cost computers and processing power has invaded the cockpit to stay. Rather than dwelling over a chart on the kitchen table getting ready for that next flight, the modern pilot will spend his afternoon sitting in the airplane. Learning how to program, operate and configure his latest gizmo. Modern avionics are so complex to learn and program, it literally takes dozens of hours reading operating/user manuals while pressing the buttons just trying to figure out what's important and what's not. Only after the pilot completes this training, can he move onto safe flight, and even then, needs to spend time in a powered up cockpit programming the avionics
.
The problem, is...how are you going to keep this shiny new airplane powered up during these long hours of prep work?
Traditionally there are three ways to accomplish this.

1. Run on the ships internal battery. This is the worst method, as it leaves you with a dead battery.

2.
Use the old "battery charger clips on the battery terminals" method. This works, although poorly, as it inject AC hum into your DC system as a result of little or no filtering in the charger. It can be awkward, even difficult to access your  battery. This technique is VERY dangerous, as batteries give off an explosive mixture of hydrogen and oxygen when charging. When the time comes to disconnect the clips and go home, the  tiniest spark and BOOM...you're blind.

3. The best way is to use an external power supply system. This "system" includes the power supply itself, some wiring mounted in the airframe, and little knowledge. The benefits include:

A. you can take it with you on trips as it's light weight (less than 2 lbs) or leave it behind.

B. It belts out an impressive 13 AMPS of highly filtered and regulated DC power. It will charge a typical battery completely in 2 hours. It will charge a dead battery enough to start the engine in 15 minutes.

C. It's VERY reliable.

D. The wiring added to airframe allows instant connect and disconnect to a connector you place wherever you want.

E. No chance of sparking an explosive mixture as you mount the connecter in a safe, easy to access location, like in the cockpit, or on a gear leg.

F. The power supply will likely run all your avionics and recharge your battery at the same time.

I built several different power supplies for aircraft thus far. All power supplies have their pluses and minuses. Some regulate well, but make a lot of VHF noise, others make plenty of AMPS but their over current protection is so sensitive, it goes into protection mode when connected to a run down battery. I've found the right power supply and offer it to homebuilders as it meets all the needs. NOTE: These are clean, tested, reconditioned units. If you want a new one, It will cost you $165.
These units I'm offering:

1 .Runs cool and quiet.
2. Make a usable amount of Amps (over 13) at 13.8 Volts.
3. Are built well and take a lot of physical abuse (kicking, stepped on etc.)
4. Incorporate over voltage, over current , and short circuit protection.
5. Like to recharge batteries (Remember some don't)
6. Are small and lightweight.
7. Are most importantly...  CHEAP!!!

This is one of the units. It is 7" long, 3.5" wide and 2" high. Weight is less than 2 pounds so you can throw it in your flight bag for those long trips. You can even permanently mount it in you plane if you want.


WARNING:
NO MATTER HOW YOU USE THIS SYSTEM, YOU MUST USE A THREE WIRE GROUNDED POWER PLUG TO CONNECT TO THE 110 VOLT GROUNDED POWER SOURCE (3 CONDUCTOR EXTENSION CORD ETC.)
 

Installation guidelines

The power supply is powered by a 3 conductor grounded cord and plug. As this unit draws little current from the mains, a small wire size is acceptable. I choose to use a small cord to make transporting this unit easier. This assumes and extension cord will be available whenever power is needed. You can make a cord of whatever length you like as long as you can get 2 amps thru it with minimal voltage drop.

Connect the ground wire (usually green) to the FG (frame ground) terminal. This grounds the metallic housing of the power supply to prevent electrical shock if the unit were to malfunction. A loose rivet dropped into the power supplies cooling holes could also cause a dangerous short. Grounding is a must!

Connect the cord's black wire to the AC(L) (LINE) terminal and the white wire to AC(N) (neutral) terminal on the power supply.

This completes the AC wiring portion of this unit. The power supply is internally fused so no external fuse is needed. The power supply has no on/off switch. You must unplug the unit to shut it off. Don't leave it plugged in unless it is under a load. This is a typical requirement of switching power supplies as they all like to have a load present whenever powered up. This power supply works well with little or no load, but you should still unplug it whenever it's power output is not needed.

 

WARNING
These terminals (AC-L and AC-N) have 110 volts on them whenever the unit is plugged in. Curious fingers or other objects coming in contact with these terminals can cause a dangerous/fatal shock. Cover these terminal with tape, silicone or adequate insulating material prior to use!


In this picture, the three conductor power cable is connected. This particular plug came from an old computer and the colors of the wires are other than standard. If you buy a kit, the cord will already be attached to the power supply similar to what's shown here.

Connecting to the aircraft

Connecting the power supply to the aircraft is a rather simple task. It's recommended that the output of the power supply be fed into the ships main DC bus via a 20 amp fuse. Builders wishing to connect other ways should do so carefully to insure the addition of this circuit to the ship wiring is done in such a manner as to prevent any power supply failures impacting the operation of the aircraft.

WARNING
Always install a 20 amp fuse between the power supply and aircraft's DC bus.

The -V terminal of the power supply should be connected to the aircraft ground, preferably at a common ground point if available.

The +V terminal on the power supply should be connected to the 20 AMP inline fuse. This fuse is in turn connected to the ships battery bus.

I recommend using a two pin MOLEX connector for this, but you may use whatever you like as long as it will flow 13 amps continuously without heating up. If you buy the kit, it comes with the connectors.

I use some high current flexible 16 GA zip cord style wire purchased at any Radio Shack for the DC feeder cord. Keep the length around 6 feet to prevent excess voltage drop. The Radio Part number is#

Why the battery bus and not the battery?

The main reason is safety. NEVER connect anything to the hot battery bus unless absolutely necessary. In addition, if the power supply were to develop an internal leakage, this would present itself to you as a dead battery upon arrival at your aircraft.

Connecting the power supply to the main DC bus has advantages. One is that you can power the avionics without a battery installed in the aircraft. You turn the master switch on which closes the battery contactor and begins charging the battery. In other words, you decide whether you want to charge the battery or not.

Operating Instructions.

Place the unit in a safe, level area away from flammable or other liquids. It is not waterproof or rain resistant. Don't use this unit outdoors if rain is likely.

The unit should place in a area where air is free to circulate around it as it need air movement for cooling. Don't build it into a closed box as it will overheat and create a fire hazard. It will feel warm to the touch when operating at high loads. This is normal.

A nice place to put it is on a stool on the hanger floor.

Connect the power supply DC cord to the aircraft.

CAUTION
Make darn sure all electrical circuits (boost pumps, flaps switches etc) in the aircraft are switched off unless you want them powered as the next step will have the same effect as turning on the master switch.

Plug in the power supply to 120 Volts AC source.

The aircraft DC bus is now powered.

Turn on master switch. Leave master switch off is battery charging is not desired. Generally speaking, turn the master on as the battery will act as temporary power source during high load surges like firing up strobe lights, landing lights and big computers etc.

Remember, this power supply has limits. If the battery was low, turning on the master switch will steal most of the supply's output for charging. Switching on additional avionics at this point will power the avionics, but leave little power for charging. You can decide what you want. Most modern avionics systems will draw less than 5 amps total when operating. This leaves 8 amps for charging. Pressing the transmit button on your transceiver will temporarily draw many amps. The battery will make up for any power shortages during this type of transient load. When this big load goes away, the battery resumes charging. You'll get a feel for your aircrafts needs quickly. You may find you need to have the battery on when raising the flaps since the flap motor startup load is too much for the power supply and so on.
Anytime the power supply is overloaded, it will instantly shut down. No harm is done. You must eliminate the overload, then unplug the power supply for one minute to reset it.

The power supply is installed and operating. Note the stool it sits on to protect it from being stepped on, liquid spills etc.
It this photo, the power supply is powering all avionics systems in the mighty F1 Rocket including the BMA EFIS/Lite, Moving map computer, COM Transceiver, Transponder, Intercom, all engine instruments, GPS's, Instrument lights, auto pilot, HCM and PCM. In addition, it is charging the battery at 5 amps.

I chose to mount the external DC power connector on my aircraft at this very convenient location. Why? Because right below the connector is the alternator. It took only 6" of wire to go from the external connector to the alternator "B" lead which feeds the main DC bus. Perfect! For more information on this installation click here.


"He who demands everything that his aircraft can give him is a pilot; he that demands one iota more is a fool"
- Rocketboy